SIHH 2022 Trend Report: Blue dials continue to stage a strong, stylish showing
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SIHH 2022 Tendency Study: Blue dials proceed to stage a strong, fashionable showing
Bluish'south reign shows no sign of stopping, with watchmakers applying this popular hue onto their creations in every conceivable manner.
Panerai's Submersible 42mm. (Photograph: Panerai)
01 Feb 2022 06:00AM (Updated: 04 Jul 2022 03:11PM)
For at to the lowest degree half-dozen years at present, blue dials have been a popular alternative to black, white or silver versions.
Blue complements virtually all skin tones, and is appropriate no matter what the occasion. It's no wonder, then, that watchmakers continue to innovate the hue onto dials and straps, bezels and movement parts.
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BOVET
VIRTUOSO IX
Bovet timepieces are usually and so richly detailed and finely synthetic that entire essays could be devoted to singing their praises. But for brevity'due south sake, nosotros'll only highlight the salient features of the new Virtuoso IX.
Boot things off: The intense, lustrous bluish punch, which is the result of eight layers of translucent lacquer applied to a surface that's engraved with a fan motif. The color is evocative of 19th century enamelwork, for which Bovet is famous.
And speaking of the 19th century, the case dorsum reveals another throwback: Movement bridges engraved with a bris de verre (broken drinking glass in French) motif and coated with a blueish CVD (Chemical Vapour Deposition) treatment. The combination of, and contrast between, the blue bridges and silvery-white rhodium plate was said to be a favourite of the Bovet brothers.
Among the lookout's technical achievements is its big date indication on the bottom correct. The second time zone role, indicated by the smaller, 24-hour sub-dial, is handy too. For added convenience, there'southward too an side by side cities window. You lot can accommodate the time zone – which takes into business relationship daylight savings time – using two correctors on the case side.
Then there'due south the 10-day power reserve, indicated past the window on the bottom left. A single barrel fuels this ability supply, aided by a twice-patented spherical differential winding system (you lot can run into this mechanism on the case back at 12 o'clock). Past halving the number of turns of the crown required to fully wind the picket, this machinery saves you precious time – time that could be spent admiring the watch.
The Virtuoso IX comes in cherry gold, white gold or platinum, with an alligator strap.
GIRARD-PERREGAUX
COSMOS
Watchmaking meets interstellar travel in Girard-Perregaux's Creation. Or at least, you'll get the sensation of hurtling through space when glancing at this timepiece, thanks to the optical effect acquired by the blue luminescent liquid ceramic glowing through cut-outs on the dial.
Beneath the raised sapphire crystal, the diorama consists of four elements: Hours and minutes sub-dial; tourbillon; and 2 spheres representing the world and constellations. The earth sphere also comes with a 24-60 minutes ring around the equator. This functions as both a 2nd fourth dimension zone and 24-hour interval/dark indicator. Meanwhile the cosmic sphere showcases the 12 constellations associated with the Western Zodiac.
If you've noticed the lack of a crown, well that's considering all adjustments take identify on the case dorsum. There, 4 keys control the winding, time-setting and adjustment of each sphere. For those with slender wrists, note that the sentry wears large: The beadblasted titanium instance is 48mm in diameter and is fitted with a blue alligator strap.
GREUBEL FORSEY
Fine art Slice EDITION HISTORIQUE
The watchmaking duo of Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey want you remember of their latest cosmos equally less a timekeeper and more of a philosophical statement. Hence the manus-engraved musings on part of the punch, which espouse their ideals. Merely hey, yous can make those ethics your own goals, too – "Inventiveness" and "Perfection" are universal.
Other musings include "Art" and "Architecture", which perfectly describe this piece. The multi-layered, superbly finished, three-dimensional punch is classic Greubel Forsey. Hours and minutes are read off blood-red arrows poised on superimposed discs, while seconds are indicated past a blue mitt on the sub-punch between 10 and 11 o'clock.
Keeping things running smoothly is a double tourbillon inclined at a 30ยบ angle, which cancels out the event that gravity has on timekeeping accuracy. The device is set confronting a stunning regal blue groundwork. The sentinel – the last in a series of Art Pieces that debuted in 2022 – is issued in a 33-piece express edition, with the initial 11 pieces in platinum. The case cloth of the remaining 22 will be appear later.
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PANERAI
SUBMERSIBLE 42MM (PAM 959)
This is the entry-level diving watch you'll want to get if you want a Panerai with a dissimilar look, compared to the classical Panerai aesthetic of stainless steel example and black sandwich dial. Here the brushed steel case is fitted with a blue ceramic bezel, while the textured greyness dial (Panerai calls it "shark gray") sports applied hour markers and dots.
The PAM 959 might also be a ameliorate fit for your wrist. Information technology's 42mm in diameter, a size that Panerai has been offering more than and more of in recent years, mostly because of Asian need and the general backfire against oversized watches. Watertight to depths of 300m, the watch is propelled by an automatic, in-house manufactured calibre and comes with a blueish safety strap.
ROGER DUBUIS
EXCALIBUR AVENTADOR Due south BUCHERER Blue EDITION
Swiss watch and jewellery retailer Bucherer introduced its Bucherer Bluish Editions in 2016, collaborating with watchmakers to produce pieces with blue elements exclusively for its boutiques. The collection now counts some 16 watchmakers and 32 watches, the latest of which is Roger Dubuis's Excalibur Aventador South.
Housed in a 45mm C-SMC carbon instance, the watch sports an openworked Duotor calibre that'south enlivened by a blue dial and a rubber strap with a blueish technical material insert. It's limited to just eight pieces.
ULYSSE NARDIN
CLASSICO MANARA
While most famous for its Freak serial of watches, Ulysse Nardin is too admired for its erotic watches. Typically, these feature automatons in, shall nosotros say, compromising positions. On the Classico Manara, yet, the Swiss watchmaker took a different arroyo, adopting the art of miniature painting to illustrate the erotic themes.
Inspiration came from the Italian comic book illustrator Milo Manara, a classically trained painter with half a century's experience. To fit Manara's water color paintings on the dials – which are around 10 times smaller than the originals – Ulysse Nardin'southward artisans had to invest 50 hours of work, round the clock, per punch. The resulting miniature paintings were then protected by a layer of transparent lacquer.
There are 10 paintings in all, with Ulysse Nardin issuing a limited run of ten pieces each in stainless steel and rose aureate, for a full of 200 pieces. In-house automatic movements and nighttime blue alligator straps consummate the drove.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
OVERSEAS TOURBILLON
Of all the watchmakers at SIHH, Vacheron Constantin was the about prolific when it came to the blues. It showcased not one just seven models across three collections decked out in this regal tone. Only every bit longtime fans of the sporty yet elegant Overseas line, the one that set up our pulses racing fastest was the Overseas Tourbillon.
It's the first ever tourbillon model in the Overseas collection, and what a debut. The tourbillon is set against a stunning blue dial, fabricated from translucent blueish lacquer applied onto a sunburst satin-finished surface. The tourbillon outset appeared on two models in the Traditionnelle collection in 2018, but here it really pops cheers to the blue backdrop.
The mechanism's compages and finesse is to exist admired: The openworked Maltese Cross; the finely polished gears and wheels; and the bar that supports the entire structure, which is mitt-bevelled, a process that requires 12 hours of work.
The self-winding picket has 80 hours of power reserve, then yous tin pick up where you left off even after a long weekend. It's besides supplied with three straps – alligator, rubber and steel – that can easily be changed without the use of tools.
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